Elizabeth visits the City God Temple Sept 27, 2010

Remember me telling you all about the City God Temple? Yes, you do! It's the temple that is at the centre of the Yu Yuan Bazaar and near the Yu Yuan Garden. Remember now?

I wasn't able to visit the temple the first time I went, but I had the chance to go again, this time with a tour group and a professional guide, Lily. She is a native Shanghailander. Yes, that's what they're called. I'm not making it up. I read it in a book. Fine, I'll double-check it later. I really learned a lot from Lily and she was very receptive to my numerous questions. Yes, I did take notes.

First, we went through part of Yu Yuan Market to get to the temple. This is the famous teahouse and, as I found out from Lily, much to my disappointment, the only original building in the whole market area. That's correct. All those buildings in my previous post (Yu Yuan Market) are reproductions. Ah, the disillusionment...but I still think they are beautiful.

Old and new together

This teahouse was originally in the Yu Yuan Garden itself, but when they rebuilt the garden, it was not included inside the walls. I don't know why, but I didn't have the heart to ask Lily yet another question. 

50 points to the person who remembers what this is....that's right!

The famous steamed bun restaurant where I had lunch with Susan.

Crossing the Nine Zigzag Bridge

Another angle of the mosquito farm, I mean pond

Still on the Nine Zigzag Bridge

I count five zigzags

Spewing dragon

Looking back at the restaurant, still on the Nine Zigzag Bridge

Finally! We were at the entrance of the City God Temple

Lion-male or female? 

Do you remember how to tell the difference? What?!? You haven't been taking notes?!?

The courtyard with its incense burner

Woman with incense sticks foreground, right

The City Temple god

You get an idea of its size by the man standing to the right

His cronies, off to the side

There was another set on the other side

Close up of the figures on the other side of the City Temple god

The one with the bowler hat reminds me of Charlie Chan

Check it out

But I digress....

Bell in the Temple

Again, check out person at very right-hand edge of photo for scale

The god of my year, specifically, and a few more Years of the Tiger.

There were huge, long cases of these statues on both sides of a long hallway.

Selfishly, I was only interested in my year.

God of Wealth

Sorry for the glare

God of Literature 

Less glare, I am making progress in all areas

Another rendering of the City Temple god

He, Qin Yu-bo, was just an administrator who did such a good job that when he died in 1373, he was made a city god. From what I understand, anyone could become a city god, provided they were worthy. 

His wife, Madame City God 

I don't know how to describe these....there was a column in the hall with these little containers encircling it. I had exhausted Lily at this point, so forgive me. Each container held a tiny golden Buddha and  red piece of cardboard with writing on it. I think you could buy the little pieces of cardboard and write a wish/prayer on it and then insert it into the container. Maybe my Mandarin-reading friends can make out what is written in this picture.

Still so much to learn

Friday Funny Oct 8, 2010

This sign is posted outside our favourite restaurant in the "mall" across the street.

Subtle

Elizabeth lunches with the ladies Sept 23, 2010

I'm afraid "lunching" has become a frequent activity. In the early weeks of a move, I guess it's justifiable as a way to develop friendships.

Someone please stage an intervention if you notice that all I do is go out for lunch.

This luncheon was given by the American Women's Club of Shanghai (AWCS). As the name suggests, the AWCS is for women only. I now cut and paste shamelessly from their website:


The AWCS is a social non-profit club focused on enriching women’s lives while living in Shanghai. The Club supports social functions such as monthly luncheons and coffees, cultural day tours and evening events as well as soft fundraising for local community outreach groups in Shanghai. The Club's members are comprised of women from the international Shanghai community.


...which is how they let a Canadian in to the club. 


What is it that Groucho Marx said about joining a club that would have him as a member? 


I, however, did not refuse joining this particular club. I need all the group activity and potential connections I can get.
The lunch was at a restaurant called The Hamilton House, whose claim to fame is its location in an Art Deco building near the Bund.

The ladies who lunch, restaurant side

The bar side

Both photos taken from the balcony

The bar, ground level

Sleek, yes? I can't believe I took this one! It looks professional!

Now the meal itself. I hope you already ate!

Fig and goat's cheese tart

Not really a tart, but delicious nonetheless

Yes, I ate the greenery

Seafood ravioli with basil vinaigrette 

Definitely not Chef Boyardee

Pistachio nougat parfait, deconstructed

Now you know why I need to go to the gym on a regular basis. I met some interesting women and also spent time with Tamara, the person I had gone to Moganshan Artists' area with. It's a small expat world. 

Outside the restaurant, across the street, there was a fellow making these grass animals. There's a skill!

I was the only one to take photos. Spot the newbie. I don't care. I will maintain that my child-like curiosity is charming and refreshing. 

It's a dragon. I guess it self incinerates when it breathes fire. 

There's always something interesting to see in Shanghai.

Elizabeth goes to the French Concession Sept 21, 2010

I am still trying desperately to catch up! I can't believe how far behind I am! My days aren't all that busy and yet...

This is a tour I went on, as the name suggests, in the former French Concession of Shanghai.

I cut and paste directly from Wikipedia:

The area covered by the former French Concession was, for much of the 20th century, the premier residential and retail districts of Shanghai, and was also the centre of Catholicism in Shanghai. Despite rampant re-development over the last few decades, the area retains a distinct character,

The only way I can tell I'm in the French Concession is to look and see if there are the big plane trees by the side of the road. Yes? French Concession. No? I could be anywhere.

I signed up for a professionally-led group tour, for  a change, so I knew I couldn't get lost.  They tried to lose me, but I kept finding them.

The French Concession has some really pretty buildings.

Once again, I feel like I am just scratching the surface and that there is still so much to learn and see.

This, by far, was my best ever "touristy" outing in Shanghai. We went to Fuxing Park, famous for several reasons. One is that it is in the former French Concession, where the Chinese were once excluded,  along with dogs (nice). Another reason is that this park has dozens of people gathering every morning to sing, dance, play cards or literally shake their maracas.

This woman was leading a group of singers and musicians. She brings these huge scrolls of music with lots of notations and everyone sings and plays along. She saw our group coming (really?!? you mean a bunch  of white Westerners is really that noticeable in Shanghai?) and had everyone play and sing "Jingle Bells" as the next song. I, of course, sang along lustily in English. It was great!

Leaving the singers, we came next to the maraca shakers. This was incredible, all ages, races and abilities were participating. You've never seen such enthusiasm! BYOM (Bring Your Own Maracas) Next time I will!

Doncha ya know there were Hello Kitty stickers on her maracas.

Hello Kitty...omnipresent everywhere...

There was dancing...I am thinking of one friend in particular who is a really good dancer and has even competed. She would really enjoy this fun, relaxed atmosphere.

Everybody was sweating like crazy because it was so stinkin' hot outside, even at 9:45 a.m. in late September. This is why they get there so early and finish at 10:00 a.m. They don't care about the temperature though.

Look how many people there were!

Once again, I really want to go back and participate instead of just observe. I actually got a little verklempt watching this. O.K., more than a little verklempt, truth be told. I know that comes as a huge surprise to my friends and family. This was the most inclusive event I have ever seen. I was really touched, genuinely moved. It didn't matter where you were from, your skill level, your language, your physical ability, everybody was welcomed and celebrated.

Here's a classic

Some of these men had the prettiest, big paper fans. Again, a very friendly bunch.

We left Fuxing Park and came across this building on the corner. It is now a middle school.

It houses the only photo of Mao Zedong (you may know him as Mao Tse-tung) and all his political cronies before he came into power in 1949. Our guide knows the security guard so he let us take pictures. See if you can recognize Mao. 

Yep, that's him in the green suit standing next to the tiny old man in the grey outfit.

Street scenes from the same area. There is a dearth of cars here because only delivery vehicles are allowed. 

I like that.

Love the palm trees. So bizarre. I do not associate palm trees with Shanghai.

Speaking of bizarre...tucked away behind these beautiful buildings are the so-called lane homes. 

They come in two varieties. The two storey ones are called lilong and the three storey ones are longtang. We did a lot of poking around alleys. The culture of these lane houses and their neighbourhoods is fascinating. It's a whole different world behind those big, enfolding walls. 

Again, I cut and paste blatantly from someone more knowledgeable than I:

Longtang is such a place that provided the residents more chances to communicate with each other. In the Longtangs, people always meet together, all the residents are closely associated and conglomerated, thus bringing forth a strong sense of localism, safety and family-likeness. The main social activities in Longtangs are those of the old people and children. In a Longtang they were never neglected as they are nowadays in other places. The special space arrangement in the Longtang can provide people places for the old people and children to carry on public activities. Some of the old people are keen on doing public welfare activities, for example, doing the cleaning work, taking care of each other and looking after the children. Such activities, carried on spontaneously, have more human sense and interests of life.

Yes, someone lives here, an old lady who has lived here for years. Many of these homes are inhabited by elderly people who, for practical and/or sentimental reasons, do not want to move. Some of them have even been offered large sums of money by real estate developers. 

To say that these houses are simple is a gross understatement. 

Of course, they used to be in better condition. The alleys are clean and there is still  huge pride of ownership and a wonderful sense of community, palpable even to an outsider like me.

This is a public, very local "newspaper" at the entrance to one of these lane home communities. Someone, with beautiful penmanship, writes the latest news on these boards for everyone to read. 

Looking down the main entrance alley. People live here with their businesses out front. There are fruit and veg stalls, a barber shop, a variety store. Down another alley, I peeped past a half-opened door and saw a rudimentary hair salon. If you're elderly and can't get out to the big city, you don't have to. Everything is here and you have your neighbours to watch out for you and chat with. 

You even have your pets.

I hope you can make out the cricket.

No, it's not Jiminy!

Details

The classic stone lintel that make these longtang houses shikumen longtang (remember that word from the blog on Xin Tian Di?)

Some of the longtangs have been fixed up. I don't think the lilongs as much because they are tiny and there isn't much to work with. This gentrification reminds me of Cabbagetown in Toronto, but on a much smaller scale.

I hope you enjoyed your tour of just a small part of the French Concession. There will be a French Concession Tour, Part II! Again, this is something you have to see live to really experience, but I hope you at least got a feel for the unique atmosphere of this area.  

Friday Funny Oct 1, 2010

It's a little late, but it's still Friday!

Who knows where those hands have been?

Credit goes to my travelling photographer, Rakesh, who snapped this one on the shuttle bus from his hotel to the airport in Hong Kong. 

Happy October, everyone!