Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Elizabeth's third full day in Tokyo Oct 3, 2010

This was my kind of day. It combined contemporary culture and past history, an ideal mix. Oh, yeah, Rakesh and the kids were there, too. They added to the enjoyment as well. Really.

Our first stop was Yoyogi Park, a large park and home to the Meji Shrine.

This is the gate to the park near Harajuku subway station entrance.


I don't know if you can tell, but they were thrilled to be there. Nothing like the forced self-guided tour.

Further into the park


It reminded me of Point Pleasant Park in Halifax, pre-Hurricane Juan. There are 100, 000 trees from Japan and other countries planted in this park. The trees were planted 90 years ago to honour Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken, beloved, progressive rulers from 1852-1912. 


Deeper still into the park


Wine barrels!

Yes, this is the park for all you oenophiles. To the best of my understanding, these were given to Japan by wine makers of Burgundy as an act of friendship and peace. 

Emperor Meiji was a proponent of Western culture and French wine was a part of his appreciation. Smart man. This also explains the subtle French influence I saw, like the bakeries, the fashion, the cafes.

On the other side, there were these things. 


I haven't a sweet clue what these are. Truly. They looked like bales of something. That's useful. 
Any ideas, anybody?

Here's a close-up if that helps. 


Closer still...


Somebody out there has to know what these are!

We walked on to the Meiji Shrine.


This is a serious gate. The Torii, or Shrine Gate, made from cypress.

Before one enters a Shinto shrine, like the Meiji, there is a whole series of steps to follow to pay proper respect.  The second to fourth steps of ten involve rinsing with water.


Visitors performing their ablutions. 

"But wait!" I hear you say, "What is Shinto?" 

Shinto is Japan's ancient original religion and it is deeply rooted in the Japanese way of life [she plagiarizes boldly from the park brochure]. Shinto has no founder and no holy book. Shinto values harmony with nature and virtues such as a "sincere heart". In Shinto, some divinity is found in Kami (divine spirit), of which there are an unlimited number. You can see Kami in mythology, nature and in human beings [like Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken]. From ancient times, Japanese people have felt awe and gratitude towards such Kami and dedicated shrines to many of them [finished my blatant copying from the brochure].



The entrance to the shrine courtyard


From another angle





Before I went in, I was distracted by this bridal party making use of the Shinto marriage hall and grounds for their wedding day. Beautiful!

I followed them to where their photos were being taken.


I felt so lucky to have been a witness to this aspect of daily Japanese life. 

Back to the shrine...the inner active area.



There was some sort of ceremony being performed when we visited. I wasn't expecting that in modern Japan this shrine would still be used to the extent that it was.


People were beginning to leave, including this Shinto priest.



She was clearly at the shrine for a special event.


Everybody's cleared out.


Building bordering one edge of the courtyard.


Looking across the courtyard. I love their outfits! 




This was something I had never seen before, these rows and rows of dolls and stuffed animals that went around four walls of an area set back from the main courtyard. There were so many different varieties. Some of the dolls were stunning. 

I did some research on the meaning of all these thank dolls and this is what I came up with. If I am wrong, someone please let me know. 

First of all, you need to know that dolls play a huge role in Japan's culture, even today. 

From a website, not mine:

Japanese Dolls
Japanese Dolls are renowned in the world and are an integral aspect of the culture of Japan. The Japanese traditional dolls are known as 'ningyo', which means 'human figure'. Different types of dolls are available in Japan ranging from warriors and heroes, fairy-tale characters, gods and (rarely) demons and commoners. These dolls are made for gift purpose, for household shrines and to be used during festivals like Hina Matsuri [the Doll Festival]. The dolls are also popular souvenirs of Japan, which are frequently bought by the tourists visiting the country.
The tradition of dolls in Japan goes back to the ancient past, when the young girls played with dolls and dollhouses. Women of Japan used to make dolls to protect their children or grandchildren and dolls were also used in religious ceremonies.
Information on what these dolls and stuffed animals are doing at the Meiji Shrine:

CEREMONIES TO SAY 'THANKS AND GOODBYE'

Last rites for the memories as beloved dolls pass away


Staff writer

Earlier this year, Okamoto was excited to learn about the Kiyomizu Kannondo Temple in Tokyo's northern Taito Ward. At that temple in Ueno Park, she found out that a ceremony called ningyo kuyo is held annually to pray for dolls and thank them for giving their owners many fond memories. It is also a way for owners to release dolls from their hands and lives.

On Sept. 25, Okamoto was one of many dozens who took their dolls to the temple to be prayed for and then discarded. They included traditional ones such as Hina ningyo doll sets representing emperor and empress, attendants, court musicians and guards, which are traditionally given on the March 3 annual Hinamatsuri (Doll Festival), when families with daughters display them as a way of expressing hope for their future happiness. As well, that day at the temple, numerous soft-toy animals or animation characters were among the many "offerings" made.


In fact, one of the nation's major "doll farewells" takes place today at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo's Shibuya Ward. There, from 9 a.m., people will start bringing in their dolls, and a huge number are expected to surround the main shrine before the day is out.
All very touching, for sure, but why do so many Japanese feel the need to pray for the dolls before abandoning them -- to say such "Thanks and Goodbye," as signs at Meiji Shrine proclaim?
According to Sumie Kobayashi, who heads the reference room of doll manufacturer Yoshitoku Co., the key actually lies in the annual Hinamatsuri Doll Festival. The dolls for this occasion, traditionally representing the wedding of the Imperial couple, are displayed on a platform. They are admired and handled with care and respect.


If you want the full story, here's the web address. I really encourage you to do so. It's a fascinating, easy, informative read and the pictures are lovely. 

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fl20061015x1.html


 Back to our day. Walking out of the park, we saw one more family celebrating a special event. I don't know what, but I bet it had something to do with the little girl, who graciously allowed me to take her photo.



You know what? I edited this one in iPhoto and it didn't "take". I still need technical help! Oh, well. Do your own cropping using your fingers.

The girl's hair-do is priceless.

We left the shrine and park (Finally! I can my family say), leaving by the same entrance we came in, the one close to the Harajuku subway entrance.


Side view of Tudor style station, Tokyo Tower blocked by station tower
Good job, Elizabeth 


Front view 

Most important view we had, some classic Harajuku girls-in-training. We saw more extreme examples, but they wouldn't let me take their photos. These ones needed the practice holding their fingers in the Asian "V", I guess. Actually, they were really sweet. 


Talk about cross-cultural cuteness!

After this photo op, we made our way to Takeshita Dori (Street) which is the centre of Tokyo's most extreme teenage fashion. 



Looking down Takeshita Dori


Checking out the merchandise. Now we're happy!


Hey! Now I can be a goth Lolita Harajuku girl. 
Rakesh was thrilled. 


Time for lunch to keep up the strength needed for shopping. 
Yes, waffles again, with Dr. Pepper, no less. I am a bad mother. 
At least Hare is integrating with the local population. Notice the subtle "V" sign?


We weren't the only ones shopping on Takeshita Dori.


And shopping....


... and shopping here, tee hee. 

After the kids had done their bit to boost the Tokyo economy, it was my choice of activity again and I chose monorail. Did someone say, "Monorail'? Anyone else see that "Simpson's" episode? Never mind.

Yes, we went on the Yurikamome monorail. It was a great way to see another part of the city, sitting down (always a bonus). 


The Rainbow Bridge reminiscent of the Halifax/Dartmouth bridge



This is definitely a ringer for Halifax.


The FUJI TV Headquarters with its globe-shaped observatory open to the public.



Formula One cars on display. Very cool. 
Yes, we could see them from the elevated monorail. 


Fountain in the midst of office buildings


Ferris wheel in the colourful Palette Town


Random gigantic saw.
Tool Town?


My attempt to take a picture proving we were on a monorail. 
At least there is unique building in the distant background.


Tokyo's version of Toronto's Leslie Street Spit. 
Beautiful. What a fabulous city.
Tokyo Tower visible to the left, a tall ship to the right.

We finished our monorail loop, went back to the hotel, rested and then went out for dinner which wasn't "blog-worthy".  

This should have been a premonition of what was to come in the evening.


Not really, but I wanted to post this photo in a clever way. Vivian is definitely the Fury. 

Monday, October 25, 2010

Elizabeth shows you Japanese money October, 2010

I have to show you the Japanese money because it has such a surreal feel to it. The numbers are huge. I felt like the Dr. Evil character from the Mike Myers' movies whenever I bought anything, "Twenty thousand yen!" Little finger at the corner of your mouth is optional.

Take a look and you'll see what I mean.


10, 000 JPY ($126 CDN)


5, 000 JPY (you do the math)


1, 000 JPY ($12 CDN)
Really!?! 1, 000 is $12.
So odd.

I loved the coins. There are six denominations, but the ones I liked the best were the 50 yen coin (63 cents) and the 5 yen coin (6 cents! 6 cents!) because they have holes in them. I'm thinking I could use them to make some jewelry. They certainly aren't expensive. 



5 JPY and 50 JPY

We now return to our regular blog.

Elizabeth's second full day in Tokyo Oct 2, 2010

Yes, the family is still with me! This is my blog though, not theirs. They need to write their own.

Today we tackled the Tokyo subway system. Before I start, I have to give you some background on the Shanghai subway system, the one we're now used to.


For starters, my reloadable Shanghai Public Transportation Card. I can use this on buses, subways, ferries and taxis. Why the sticker, you ask? So that I can make sure that an unscrupulous taxi driver doesn't take my loaded card when I pay and hand me back an empty card. They all look alike, you know. I also get back my 30 RMB deposit on the card when I return it...in 3 to 5 years, or whenever we repatriate, but that's a whole other story...You do remember the title of my blog, right?


The Shanghai subway system. I know. How many lines do we have in TO? Fortunately, the most difficult thing about this system is figuring out where your terminus is. The signs are bilingual and everyone, even total strangers, are very helpful. Torontonians, take note!


These illuminated bilingual signs of the specific line in each train above every door help as well. If only the buses in Shanghai were this user-friendly.

Now on to Tokyo....

Here's what the Tokyo system looks like


In case you didn't fully appreciate the complexity, here's a detail


Yikes!!!

To make matters even more complicated, there are two companies that operate the subway system! Their lines sometimes overlap, sometimes not. The companies have different signs, different fares...And all this is mostly in Japanese! Imagine that!

Fortunately, we are brighter than the average bears (Just "bearly"! Ha ha, you get it?!? I must be tired.), the Japanese people are helpful, as are our fellow tourists, plus we have two teenage children who know it all.

We figured it out.

Where was I? Right, our day's adventure.

We decided that we would revisit Omotesando and then also see the Harajuku district. Everyone had had enough walking the previous day, which was why we took the subway this day.

I noticed these structures on the street.


This is a smoking "booth" where smokers are encouraged to smoke rather than walking and smoking at the same time.

I loved the illustrations on the booth.


Very informative! I had no idea the lit end is 700 degrees C.


Never realized that before.



The Japanese take anti-smoking to a new level. 

I'll spare you all the shopping the kids inflicted on Rakesh and me. If only we had been spared.

We proceeded to Harajuka Street. I had never seen children used as accessories before.


Think this kid has posed before? I wonder how long it took the mum to get him/her ready to go? Gee, and I was happy if my kids had a shirt on for church, let alone being coiffed and colour co-ordinated. 


Time for a nutritious lunch of waffles with any, ANY, topping that you want. We really enjoyed these waffle stands, perhaps too much. 

More shopping...(suppressed groan)

Another hidden temple on our way to the Shibuya area. This is the Chosenji Temple. I was taking notes.




Little statues...
....wearing scarves???
What are they? Canadian? I wish I knew...


I still have so much to learn.

We continued on to Shibuya, a youthful, trendy area. All of Tokyo seemed that way, though. All the men wore black suits, all the women dressed elegantly, if they weren't Harajuku-types. You'll see later.
Shibuya is famous for having the busiest scramble crossing. 


I think scramble crossings are the best. I love all the action!

Shibuya is also famous for having a statue of Hachiko. Who or what is that? 

Let me tell you the story of Hachiko. Hachiko was an Akita, a Japanese breed of large dog. He was bought as a puppy by a professor. Every day, Hachiko would go to the train station, Shibuya, to greet his master when he returned home from work. Hachiko and the professor continued this routine a year. Then the professor died and obviously did not return. 

***KLEENEX ALERT***

I can't go on. I'm going to let Wikipedia tell the rest of the story while I, I mean you, go get some Kleenex...

Hachikō was given away after his master's death, but he routinely escaped, returning again and again to his old home. Eventually, Hachikō apparently realized that Professor Ueno no longer lived at the house. So he went to look for his master at the train station where he had accompanied him so many times before. Each day, Hachikō waited for the return of his owner.
The permanent fixture at the train station that was Hachikō attracted the attention of other commuters. Many of the people who frequented the Shibuya train station had seen Hachikō and Professor Ueno together each day. They brought Hachikō treats and food to nourish him during his wait.
This continued for nine years with Hachikō appearing precisely when the train was due at the station.


I'm O.K. now...

Nine years! Nine years he kept coming back. Hachiko died in 1935. His body is stuffed and on display at a museum. The statue was erected in 1934 and became a national symbol of loyalty. 

The real Hachiko


Adorable!

The kids had had enough fun at this point, so they headed back to the hotel. Rakesh and I struck out on our own. We found a quiet cafe tucked away in a treed neighbourhood where we had a well-deserved break. No shopping involved.



I thought about ordering this soda


Yeah, baby.

Recuperated, Rakesh and I started walking back to the hotel and caught a protest on the way. The Japanese were demonstrating against the Chinese claim to the Senkaku Islands. Actually, China and Taiwan are both claiming these uninhabited islands in the East China Sea, but that's a whole other post. 



Even when demonstrating, the Japanese seemed polite and well-dressed.


Rested some more back and the hotel, then we all took the subway to the Ginza area for dinner. These are some of the intriguing sights we saw along the way. 


Different styles of architecture all together


Cool window displays



Big crab


Big fish

Ginza was not as flashy and neon-lit as I had expected, but the area had some very chic stores and interesting pedestrian-only side streets.


A famous Ginza landmark, the Wako Clock Tower


We had dinner at another well-known Ginza spot, the Mitsukoshi Department store. Well, not the store itself, but a restaurant in the building. It was a teppanyaki restaurant, the type where your meal is cooked in front of you on a big, flat iron grill the size of a small table. You've seen this before, I know you have.



Ah, yes, you did know what I was talking about. 
This was not our dinner, thank goodness, there was tofu on the grill. Blech.

This was our "amuse-bouche" 
(I wonder how you say that in Japanese?)


Crunchy, vinegary vegetable salads of some sort

Followed by...


garlic cooked in front of us for our...


beef and...


prawns



Bon appetit!



Happy, or what?

Dessert was...different...traditional, I guess. The Japanese do bake, but we didn't have that kind of dessert.




Shaved ice to which one added red beans. Yep. At least I can say I tried it. 

We took the subway home. Vivian was feeling strong. It must have been the been the beef.



We got the subway a little distance from the hotel so we could see a bit of the area.

Goofin' around...




I told you we were staying in a nice neighbourhood!


More to come!