As you know, I wasn't fired after the first tour I co-ordinated, so off I went on the second with Spencer Dodington, as planned.
This day's adventure was called "The Bund". Instead of walking along the more popular waterfront side, we explored the lesser known streets behind the Bund. We started at the historic Astor House Hotel, the first Western-style hotel in Shanghai. Built in 1846, it was originally known as the Richards Hotel.
As it says on the hotel's website:
To make it the most deluxe western hotel in the city and one of the best in China and in the Far East alike, the hotel was restored in 1907 to a neo-classic Baroque structure.
Over the past 150 years, Astor House Hotel retains its glorious architectural essence, and helps to epitomize the historical nature of the city of Shanghai.
In 2002, the first phase of renovation project was accomplished and the renewen [sic] building recovered its elegant mien again.
Over the past 150 years, Astor House Hotel retains its glorious architectural essence, and helps to epitomize the historical nature of the city of Shanghai.
In 2002, the first phase of renovation project was accomplished and the renewen [sic] building recovered its elegant mien again.
I think they did an excellent job.
The front desk
The lobby
Detail of the original wood pillar
The terrazzo floor is also original.
The ballroom
Notice the pattern on the floor.
The original beautiful inlay
Just looking at it makes you feel like whirling around the dance floor.
Just looking at it makes you feel like whirling around the dance floor.
A closer look at the ceiling
Hard to believe that this hotel was used in the 1990s as Shanghai's Stock Exchange and then a budget youth hostel.
A store in the lobby
The dress I will wear if I am ever invited to
an event in the ballroom.
The Russian Consulate across the street
This used to be the American one until it
was moved to the French Concession.
Looking back at the Astor House Hotel.
I couldn't wait for the bus to move to take a better photo or I would have lost the group. You can't lose the group if you're the co-ordiantor.
We crossed over Suzhou Creek to continue our tour.
Yes, this is a water gate. It prevents the Huangpu River, which empties into the East China Sea, from flowing uncontrollably into Suzhou Creek. That's Pudong in the background. In the right foreground you have the Monument to the People's Heroes. There are three gigantic concrete projections meant to look like rifles. The monument was built in the 1990s to commemorate the revolutionaries who died.
Looking back at the other side of the Russian Consulate
with the Astor House behind it.
Huangpu River sightseeing boat
Spencer explained the feng shui of this bend in the Huangpu and the Oriental Pearl Tower. Here goes my attempt at paraphrase...There is a bend in the river where all the bad qi (energy) from both directions collects; it kind of gets stuck. (Hey! I didn't invent this feng shui stuff. I'm just repeating what I was told.) Anyway, that's the reason why back in the 1800s the Chinese didn't mind giving the foreigners the land near this bend for their concessions, bad qi. Later, when the Chinese government decided it wanted to construct something, they built the Oriental Peal Tower and used all the feng shui principles to combat the bad qi. Hence the round shapes (yin) balanced by the straight (yang) lines and the Tower's location right at the bend of the Huangpu in the "dragon's jaws". Spencer was far more articulate than I am here. That's why he's the guide and I'm the humble co-ordinator.
Bridge over the Suzhou Creek
There was a bride having her photo taken.
We were to see many more in the course of our walk.
Suzhou Creek Bridge looking west.
I like the criss-cross effect of the beams.
Old buildings
Yeah, I'm that specific.
Another bride with her photographer and crew
This red brick edifice was once a boat house.
Nice.
The Broadway Mansions, an Art Deco style apartment building.
There is now a restaurant on the third floor with a great view of the Bund. During WWII, all the war correspondents stayed at the Broadway Mansions and had an excellent vantage point for all the action.
Once upon a time, this was the British Consul's residence.
More brides!
The primping! The staging!
Let me fill you in on what happens vis-a-vis bridal photography in Shanghai. The bride and groom have all their photos taken before the big day. There are special businesses, one-stop shops, so to speak, that cater to the engaged couples' needs-outfits for the photos, photographers and albums, wedding favours, invitations and so on. The couple rents their outfits, which can be quite elaborate, and either goes to a studio for the shoot or heads outside to various scenic spots around the city. I love seeing these couples. I especially get a kick out of it if I can see that the bride has on her jeans and sneakers under her fancy rented wedding dress!
Moving along, we came to the Scottish Presbyterian Church.
Next, it was down Hu Qiu Lu, a road in an area that is being restored to its former glory and dubbed the Rockbund due to the influx of funds from a Rockefeller development corporation and the street's proximity to the Bund. The buildings in this area are stunning, in my humble opinion. Let the parade of architectural styles begin.
Note the Art Deco vertical lines.
Close up of the top of the building
Close up of the top of the building
The lighter coloured projections are an
Art Deco version of gargoyles.
More buildings with those vertical Art Deco lines
Close up of stylized cloud detail
Clouds are considered good luck symbols by the Chinese,
as you remember from previous posts.
Clouds are considered good luck symbols by the Chinese,
as you remember from previous posts.
Spencer pointed out that this was Chinese Art Deco.
Not Art Deco of any type, but Queen Anne Revival.
Great attention to detail
For those of you wondering, yes, my neck does get stiff after these walks. Occupational hazard, I guess.
Another example of amazing architecture
Now for a pop quiz. Which one of these buildings is Art Deco?
The one above or below?
Bravo! The one below, which is now above. So confusing...
Close up of window detail
The ol' ying yang, right, Dad?
Close up of the top of the same building
Look carefully and you will see abstract
lions on either side of the roof.
We left the Rockbund and continued walking on Beijing Dong Lu. (I don't think that was really the name of the street, but how would you guys know?) At any rate, we were out of the up-and-coming area and back into "regular" Shanghai.
An old, interesting building
A very old interesting building
This is one of the eight? five? (clearly I wasn't paying as much attention as I thought!) original farmhouses that remain in urban Shanghai. Wild, huh? Here's a teaser, on the next walking tour I did with Spencer, we actually got to go inside one! Very cool!
A lane house's old and original stained glass windows, made by Chinese male orphans who were taught this trade by the Jesuit missionaries.
We were all amazed that the glass was still intact.
Fellow tourists
These ladies obviously weren't from my neck of the woods.
I love seeing Chinese tourists from other parts of the country. It makes me feel good to know I'm not the only one in Shanghai walking and gawking.
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