Japanese Shanghai October 15, 2012

If I'm back in Shanghai, then I must be on the walking tour circuit again with the Shanghai Expatriate Association (SEA). This time, a tour called Japanese Shanghai. Don't say it too loudly! Here's the blurb:

Hongkou, just north of the Bund, is one of Shanghai's more interesting neighbourhoods. Close to the city proper, it is an area largely unknown to Chinese and expats alike. From the earliest Concession days, Japanese shop owners and other entrepreneurs came to the city in search of opportunities. By the 1920s, there were more than 20,000 Japanese civilians living in Hongkou. In this walk, we will discuss their stories and explore the architectural remains of this forgotten part of Shanghai’s history.

This is one of the few walks I hadn't done with the SEA, so I was excited. I know. Not like me at all to be excited. We had a blue sky day, too. Fantastic!

Our starting point was on the Suzhou Creek, near the Broadway Mansions Hotel, which you've seen before. Yes, you have. That big, brown, blocky looking building with the Art Deco details. 

This structure with the wedding cake tower 

holds a  Chinese post office and the Shanghai Postal Museum.

Suzhou Creek in the foreground.

Lunch!

I tried to hold off, but it looks like I won't be able to write this blog without having to include some historical background. You know you like it. It'll be short and sweet, thanks to www. factsanddetails.com

Japan Attacks Shanghai

In January 1932, the Japanese attacked Shanghai. After several hours of fighting the Japanese occupied the northen section of the city and placed the foreign settlement under martial law. Looting and murder prevailed throughout the city, American, French and British troops took up positions with bayonets out of fear of mob violence.

This lovely white building is the Embankment Building and was, in its day, a posh and respectable address. Built by Victor Sassoon, it housed Jewish refugees during the lead up to World War II.

In the distance I believe you can make out a low block of apartment
 buildings with purple awnings. If not, just say "Yes" and humour me. 

This apartment block, called Bridge House, was built in 1934. When the Japanese occupied Shanghai, their secret police turned it into their prison. Needless to say, this is not the hottest real estate in the city. Spencer Dodington, our tour guide, says he has local Chinese friends whose parents do not allow them to even enter the building.

The former American Hospital

Yes, lots of construction in this area near the inauspicious bend (from a feng shui point of view) of the Huangpu River near Suzhou Creek. I guess rising prices for scarce land will do that. 

Post Office tower up close with its bronze statues that
miraculously escaped the Cultural Revolution.

The Shanghai Postal Museum's door was locked due to renovations.

I'll be back. I want to see the hidden garden that is a part of this museum.

Up close of the bas reliefs

Chinese version of the United States Postal Service creed?

"Neither camel nor goose nor dust clouds nor the Great Wall stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds."

 Love this mosaic tile floor! 

Post office box, still in use.

Crest on the safe door

When this hotel was built by Protestant missionaries, they could boast that it was 

the only one in the city without prostitutes. 

Good thing! 

Wonder if that still holds true today for the New Asia Hotel?

This was another apartment building with a desirable address. 

That changed when the Japanese Navy made it their prison. 

This street, Zhapu Lu, was the biggest red light district 

during the time of the Japanese occupation.

Looks pretty innocuous today.

Public housing dating from the '70's slated for demolition.

Arbury Lane, built in 1920, looks like it belongs in New Orleans with 

all those wrought iron railings and verandas. Very cool!

Please excuse Spencer's pointing finger.

Queen Anne style building

It kind of reminded me of Cabbagetown, Toronto.

Obviously modern incongruous bas relief 

Pet bird out for its airing in a tiny, tucked away practically private park

Old school bamboo laundry rod

Love the windows and the palm trees

Another angle

Let the gentrification begin

What was it that Spencer called this? Post Soviet deconstructionist monumentalism?

Yeah, sure, that's it. 

I found it attention grabbing.

The Bank of China building, built in 1932.

Gives you an idea of how pricey real estate was, even back then

Former temple, can't remember which flavour

Move that tree!

Detail 

Uhhh...I kind of thought ALL of Shanghai was Chinatown?

Great day for a fascinating tour of an overlooked corner of Shanghai. 

You can't beat exploring!