Reluctant Relocator: Elizabeth goes to Yu Yuan Garden Sept 15, 2010

Susan and I finally explored the famous Yu Yuan Garden. It is considered one of the most lavish and finest Chinese gardens in the region. I feel that it is the original, never-ending secret garden.

Brace yourselves for a lot of photos and I mean a lot.

First, some background information. You knew it was coming. You love it, too, you know you do.

It is a Ming Dynasty garden. Oo! You remember the characteristics of the Ming Dynasty, right? At least as they relate to furniture. I'm sure the same traits apply to horticulture.

Here are more facts from Wikipedia, but pace yourself, I did warn you that there a lot of photos. You might want to go to the bathroom and get drink while you can. The scary thing is that I didn't even include all my photos.

Here we go...

"The garden was first established in 1559 as a private garden created by Pan Yunduan, who spent almost 20 years building a garden to please his father Pan En, a high-ranking official in the Ming Dynasty, during his father's old age. Over the years, the gardens fell into disrepair until about 1760 when bought by merchants, before suffering extensive damage in the 19th century. In 1842, during the Opium Wars, the British army occupied the Town God Temple for five days. During the Taiping Rebellion the gardens were occupied by imperial troops, and damaged again by the Japanese in 1942. They were repaired by the Shanghai government from 1956–1961, opened to the public in 1961, and declared a national monument in 1982. Today, Yu Garden occupies an area of 2 hectares (5 acres), and is divided into six general areas laid out in the Suzhou style."

Just an aside, the official for whom this garden was built wasn't even that big of a deal. I can hardly wait to see the gardens built for the real mucky-mucks. Another aside, I just had to mention it, but I think "mucky-muck" might actually be a Canadian word. Check out http://www.urbandictionary.com/

O.K. I'll stop now.

Here are the photos...

I need to tell you that, of course, Susan and I couldn't just go directly to the Garden. Noooo, that would have been too easy. You do remember who Susan's tour guide was? Yep. All I can say is that Susan has a great sense of adventure.

So here we are making our way to the Garden by the back way, as I discovered later. I tell you, Shanghai is a real learning experience.

Yours truly courting food poisoning with street watermelon. No, I didn't get sick.

This is behind the Garden. Note the high white wall and bits sticking over the top, you'll see them again.

Also note how clean this alley is. Unbelievable.

Walking along, see the rooftops to your right, all a sneak preview of the Garden.

Looking side alley. Again, look how amazingly clean this alley is!

I have no idea what this building is, tucked behind the Garden in a back alley, but it had a plaque.

I really have to learn Mandarin characters.

Someone's pet mynah bird that said, "Ni hao" (Hello).

The most exciting part? I actually understood it! Those Mandarin lessons did not go to waste.

The exit to the Garden. I just found out today when I revisited the Garden that it is actually the exit.
So forgive me, you will be doing your tour backwards.
Aren't you glad you're flexible?

Moving along. I don't think the garbage can is original, but look how there's no litter.

Mosaic of deer in front of the doorway. The deer is a symbol of wealth, as are the coins in the border.

There were a few mosaics of different animals at various doorways.

We are in the Inner Garden. It's so cool.
This is the area where the official's wives, concubines and daughters lived.
They could only go into the rest of the Garden upon invitation.
Not so cool.

The building is where everyone slept. Not all gardens had living quarters, most of them were just "scholarly" gardens for study, receiving and entertaining guests.

Another perspective.

Up close and personal. Yes, that is a little tunnel. Naturally, I had to go through it and explore.

Inside the tunnel.

I crack myself up.

This is where it starts to get a little confusing. Try and stay with the tour.

Looking up at the residence. It's not open to tourists. Too fragile.

Still looking up, but moving further along. Is this not one of the most mysterious, intriguing places you've ever seen?

It's in the midst of Shanghai, no less! We felt like we could've been a million miles away.

What is that on the roof?

Yep, looks like a dragon or bird.

Too bad those wires are in the way.

I hope this gives you some idea of the amount of attention paid to detail.

Here is the female half of the lion couple that is guarding the Jingguan Hall. The male lion is always on the left when you exit a building with lion guards and the female is always on the right, because the female is always right. Booo! I know, but not my joke. I bet you will remember that tidbit of lore forever though!

You can also tell it's the female lion because she has a baby lion with her. If the baby is under her claw, that means that it will be the lion king and she's training him not to be afraid.

Here is a fascinating tidbit. When these lions were carved, they were made in such a way so that the stone ball in their mouths cannot be removed. Yep, that means the balls were carved last. They are beautifully finished. Of course, after I learnt that, I was checking all the lions' mouths every where I went. You'd be surprised how many of them have balls in their mouths. I forgot to ask why. Oops.

Before we continue on with the Garden, we took a little turn into the area that held the appropriately, if unoriginally, named Big Stage.

I think you can make out the instruments on the stage.

Detail of roof

The ceiling of the roof. The swirling pattern is supposed to help acoustics.

Looking forward at the next doorway to go through.

Notice the dragon detail on the top of the wall. This is just part of the dragon's body.

Now look back at the earlier photos and see if you can pick out the dragon's body draped along the top of the wall.

I bet you can.

Through the doorway and along the walkway.

The stairs go up to the living quarters.
See the jar-shaped opening?
That symbolizes peace.

Looking back at wall. I like the detail and the greenery.

I wish I knew. This is still near the Inner Garden, but I am stumped as to what it is exactly.

The roofs from a closer angle.

I love all those pointy corners!

Roof detail

Window

Interesting nook (or is it a cranny?)
Koi are supposed to bring long life and prosperity.

Wider perspective of said nook (or cranny)

This is a pavilion (she states authoritatively).
The full moon arch signifies harmony and perfect unity.

The medallion up close. Again, the detail!

Roof tile detail...I'm stalling for time because I have no way of figuring out where I am in this Garden.

I am still lost, but I do recall that the toilets are to the left. Hey! That's important!

Closer to that lintel

Closer still...beautiful!

Rooster on the roof of the building that is in the right hand corner.

Again, stupid wires in the way!

This is the Jade Water Corridor. I know that for sure.

I can't tell you how thrilled I am that I can state something with certainty.

This is definitely the Hanbi Tower. I am improving by leaps and bounds!

Susan and I decided to take a break from the great outdoors and we headed inside to the Depository of Books and Paintings (#23 for those of you following along in your official brochure).

This is like a 2-for-1 special. We get a garden tour AND a museum. Love it.

Chrysanthemum scroll

Tiger scroll

For those of you familiar with Chinese zodiac, this is the year I was born in,

Year of the Tiger.

Looks just like me, doesn't it?

The sweet little Huanlong Bridge

Jingguan Hall across the bridge, front side

Nice study, yes?

Beautiful doorway

Looking back walking away from the circular doorway.

Note all the koi in the pond.

Detail from the roof. Yes, these are dragons. Dragons are always male and they mate with female phoenixes. When she gives birth, she has nine dragon babies. While they all have dragon heads, they can have different bodies, like turtle, snake, horse. Pretty wild, eh?

Hang on, because this is where it gets jumbled again. Thank you for bearing with me.

This iconic dragon head is a recognizable symbol of Shanghai.

I don't know if you can make it out or zoom in on it, but there is a toad sitting under the dragon's open mouth. His mouth is open because he has a pearl in it. I don't know why.
Anyway, the dragon can't close his mouth, so he is drooling and the toad is catching it.
I initially said, "Eeewwww" until I was told that maybe dragon drool is sweet. Hmm.
Don't know if that changes my opinion or not.

This shot gives you an idea of the scale of the dragon.

This is the Acting and Singing Stage.

Yours truly sitting near the Stage with a waterfall in the background.

How pretty is that? What a place!

I believe this is the Ancient Well Pavilion. I could be wrong, but it's hard to prove, thank goodness!
I do know that it is near the Huge Rockery, see below.

I hope you can distinguish between the two types of stone. The white stone to your right comes from the lake (make one up) and the darker, tan stone comes from the Zhejiang province. The tan rocks were piled hight to give the illusion of a mountain. At one time, this was the highest point in Shanghai and one could actually see the Huangpu River from the Wang Jiang Pavilion. The roof of the pavilion is partially hidden in the trees.

The various rocks, white and tan, were held together by a type of cement used by the ancient Chinese. They used sticky rice (of course), clay and a bit of pig's blood for good luck. I can't even make this stuff up.

Unique furniture in He Xu Hall. There was a whole room full of it!

Moving along, trying to cover as much of the Garden as possible...

I think this is the most unusual doorway I've ever seen. It looks like a DQ cone outline.
It's supposed to be a gourd.
In the Taoist tradition there are eight Immortals. Don't ask me who there are, I'm not that good yet.
One of them rides a donkey and carries a gourd filled with wine.