Elizabeth is still in Tokyo Oct 4, 2010

"What?!? You're still there?" you ask. I know. It seems like I was in the city for a long time. You might be tired reading about this trip. Try writing about it! It's not easy being witty and informative on a consistent basis. I will struggle on.

Rakesh and I decided to abandon the children let Hare and Vivian plan their own day and we headed out "sans enfants". We, and I use the term loosely, decided we should explore the Asakusa area which retains the atmosphere of Edo (old Tokyo). We jumped on the wonderfully bossy Tokyo subway and zipped down to Asakusa.

You just know it's going to be a great neighbourhood when the Asahi Breweries building is the first thing you see emerging from the subway. Yes, this is supposed to represent a beer glass, complete with white foam on top. I have no idea what the building next to it is. Oh, alright! Let me check Google Images for you.

I'm back. The structure is the Asahi Super Dry Hall and it houses a variety of restaurants and bars. Bars? What a surprise! It was designed by Frenchman Philippe Starck. The golden squiggle is actually the "Flaming Ornament" and it represents Asahi's dynamic heart. Now we both know.

We also saw this throwback to old Tokyo.

I know, purely for the tourists, but it did look like fun. I resisted the urge to jump into one and we continued on foot to the Nakamise Shopping Area. Similar to the Yu Yuan Market around the City God Temple in Shanghai, a shopping area sprang up near the Senso-ji Temple, also known as the Asakusa Kannon. More about this later, as we get closer.

Before going to the market area, we passed  through the Kaminarimon Gate. It is called the Gate of Wind and Thunder, Thunder god to the left, Wind god to the right, whom people pray to for peace, tranquility and a successful harvest. Rakesh and I were doing the Asian "V" thing. We've been over here too long already.

Better shot of the whole gate and the gods

Looking down the main drag of the market area. This is Nakamise Shopping Area proper, home to a variety of interesting shops selling traditional, and not so traditional, goods. It is 250 metres long and stretches down to the Hozomon Gate, which you'll see later, too. Nakamise is one of the oldest markets in Japan. It was established in 1688, but the current buildings were reconstructed in 1923, after a huge earthquake and have undergone more renovations since. 

I know. You're thinking to yourselves, "Wow! Elizabeth sounds so knowledgeable. " That's because I'm getting smarter and I took photos of the signs as we went. I'm learning, too, as I type this because some people (not mentioning any names), don't want to stop and read and learn while we were there. Oh, well. Better late than never. 

Making rice crackers

Absolutely delicious and crispy, hot off the grill and then dipped in soy sauce.

I could go for one right now, as a matter of fact!

Boxes of candies and cookies, suitable for gift-giving

Good thing I don't like these types of Japanese sweets or this bad boy box would've been coming home with me!

That is one big knife. I wonder if it cuts through tin cans and then can slice a tomato paper thin?

Restaurant on a corner of a side street leading away from Nakamise.

Another quaint little spot

The whole area surrounding Nakamise was fascinating, full of little boutiques, places to eat and have fun. We saw the Stars Plaza, the Japanese version of the Canadian Walk of Fame, except they do hand prints. 

Local housing and business

These are garage and back doors. Cool!

Other tourists enjoying their rickshaw tour

Definitely not tourists

I love how organized the Japanese are. 

A side street in the area. Can you spot Rakesh?

Now can you spot me?

These people were trying to spot a famous Japanese TV star. They were filming on this street.

Then we stumbled upon this fellow. I don't know who it is, but you'll read about him further down. You certainly recognize the happy little yellow bear at its feet.

Yep, it's Winnie the Poo. What's with the little hats on the tiny supplicants? More Canadians? Actually, it's kind of a sad story. Here it is, from the web site on the Senso-ji Temple and its grounds:

A statue of Mizuko Jizo was erected in the vicinity... in 1978. “Mizuko” refers to unborn children or infants who have died. A Buddhist memorial service is held here to pray for these children on the 24th of each month at 10:00 a.m.

This shrine was near the Senso-ji Temple Grounds. I'll tell you more about this in a moment.

Guess who these are?

You'll never guess who these are and it's going to freak out all my fellow Torontonians. These statues represent Ching-do, also known as Otanuki-sama... or....wait for it...my Japanese-reading friends already know....

Sir Racoon-Dog!!! Yes, in Japan it is seen as a deity, the one who protects against fire and theft and helps businesses flourish. Raccoons in Toronto, take note! You could be doing a whole lot more, not just rummaging through Green Bins and screaming at each other in the backyard at midnight. Sorry, got carried away there.

In 1872, a steward from the Senso-ji Temple enshrined Sir Raccoon-Dog in his own garden so that the raccoon-dogs would stop causing trouble in the Senso-ji Temple. I bet those ones were from Toronto.

This explains the little stone statue with money on its head that we saw during our first days in Tokyo. Yes, it was Ching-do. 

Now we know why this image is on the pavement...

... and the presence of this mini-shrine...

...and Hachiko making nice with his little friend rather than trying to rip his head off or vice versa...

Too cute!

Now on to the main event. In typical Elizabeth-on-self-guided-tour mode, we entered from the exit. Well, not really the exit, just not the usual approach to the Senso-ji Temple. 

The side entrance. See Rakesh?

The first structure we saw was the Five-storied Pagoda, built in 942 (not a typo, folks), rebuilt in 1648 and once again in 1945 after it was burnt down in WWII and rebuilt for a last time (we hope) in 1973. There is a bone relic of the Buddha on the topmost storey of this pagoda.

Another view of the Pagoda

Nearing the Main Hall of the Senso-ji Temple

The Main Hall was first erected in 628, destroyed by fire several times (so the Japanese have good reason to be hyper-cautious with regards to fire) and rebuilt in 1649, then again in 1945 after it was destroyed in WWII air raids. This hall was built in 1958. With any luck, it won't have to be rebuilt again. The titanium roof tiles should help. 

Face on

Doors to the interior of the Main Hall

The inner sanctum which we could see, but not enter. It's divided into a front and rear chamber. The secret Bodhisattva Kannon statue is housed in the rear chamber and the duplicate statue occupies the front chamber. 

So what is this Temple all about, you ask? Terrific question, readers. As promised, I'll tell you because I kept the brochures and I now have the opportunity to read them and learn about things I've already seen.

Here's the story of the Temple, copied blatantly from the brochure:

In 628, two fishermen were on the Sumida River one day when they heard a command from the heavens to cast their net. When they brought the net up, they saw that they had caught a golden statue of Bodhisattva Kannon. [I wonder what it was doing in the river in the first place.]

In 645, a renowned Buddhist priest visited Asakusa and built a hall for the worship of the Bodhisattva Kannon. After having a mysterious dream one night, he decided that the Bodhisattva Kannon should be hidden from human view and it has stayed that way ever since. 

One question remains unanswered, "Who or what is Bodhisattva Kannon?"

Read on:

It is anyone who, motivated by great compassion, has generated bodhicitta, which is a spontaneous wish to attain Buddhahood for the benefit of all sentient beings. Kannon is the Bodhisattva of compassion, sent to to relieve human misery on Earth. Many Japanese believe their hopes and pleas will reach this deity. 

Thank you, Wikipedia. I tell you, I learn so much writing these posts. 

There is a fortune telling ritual that goes on off to the side of the Main Hall. Note the hexagonal shaped silver box. As a sign nearby instructs you, after you deposit your money, you "shake the box politely a few times" while praying for your wish. A stick marked with a fortune number will drop out of the silver box. You then go to the corresponding drawer and withdraw your fortune written on a piece of paper stored in the drawer. You are told to be "modest and gentle", no matter what the outcome, good or bad. Interesting.

Looking up in the Main Hall

Detail from the ceiling depicting  Bodhisattva Kannon

Leaving the Main Hall, this was our view looking towards the Hozomon Gate, the gate we should have entered through, the one that is at the end of Nakamise Shopping Area. Remember that? 

Getting closer...

Close up of the huge straw flip-flop on either side of the Hozomon Gate. They are a pair of straw sandals    called O-Waraji made by 800 citizens of Murayama City in one month. The sandals are believed to be good luck charms and many people will touch them on their way out. 

The other side of the Hozomon Gate

Walking further away

Paper lanterns. I have no clue as to their significance, but they're pretty.

Such elegant calligraphy and I have a hard time printing on the blackboard!

These rows of lanterns, as lovely as they are, were hiding these gods who are housed in either side of the  Hozomon Gate. These gods are called Nio and they guard the Temple and smile angrily at the enemies of Buddhism. They are made out of cypress.

One...

...and the other

Random sightings on our way out that I am too tired to figure out, except this one. I know these are prayer paddles. You pays your money, you gets your paddle, you writes your prayer.

Time for a well-deserved lunch break!

Rakesh enjoyed his sushi.

My lunch of Negi Toro Don

My reaction upon discovering my dish was raw minced tuna with wasabi and spring onions.

No, I actually knew what I was ordering. For some reason, I was more gastronomically adventurous in Tokyo. This spirit of open-stomachedness continues in Shanghai, but only with regards to Japanese food. Weird, I know. I even found myself absent-mindedly ( I think that had a lot to do with it) munching on tiny dried fish mixed in with my rice cracker snacks. I stopped when I figured out what those strong-tasting little "sticks" were. Blech.

We could have gone to lunch here

It's just not a Big Mac unless you add the egg and bacon on the top. Better be dialing 9-1-1 as you eat.

This is what I had for dessert

This is called taiyaki, a fish-shaped pastry that can be filled with anything from red bean paste to chocolate to bacon and cheese. I choose chocolate. Taiyaki were invented in the early 1900's and have become a ubiquitous snack across Japan. They are delicious! The pastry was crispy-crunchy, the centre all warm and gooey, hot off the grill. 

This is how they're made.

Batter being squeezed into the adorable moulds 

Note the chocolate filling

Different varieties waiting to be eaten

Yum!

Rakesh and I headed back to the hotel, rested up and made room for our next meal. Hare and Vivian had had a pretty tame day, thank goodness!

For dinner we went to a nearby izakaya, a Japanese style pub. The one we went to was packed with local business men, always a good sign. 

The amuse-bouche

Hare playing chopstick champion with Vivian

Cutest chopstick rests ever!

The parade of food and no, I don't remember what everything was except delicious.

If we needed anything else...

Hare taking a breather

Vivian experienced sticker shock when she looked at the bill.

Look at that total! Cue Dr. Evil theme music.

This was one of our best meals in Tokyo. We walked the short distance back to the hotel and slept hard after an excellent day.