Elizabeth walks People's Square Nov 5, 2011

It was raining on and off for the entire duration of this tour; I am talking all varieties of precipitation, from Scottish mist (that one's for you, Jean) to monsoon-type soakings. Still, the Shanghai Expat Association (SEA) participants set out anyway. I know. We walking tour fans are hard core.

Here's a description of the tour from the SEA's website:

The People's Square and People's Park area is the "green heart" of Shanghai and the foundation area for pivotal changes in Shanghai's history during the first half of the 20th century. Since the middle 1800s, the area that is now the People's Square was colonial Shanghai's horse racing track. Although once the favorite amusement of the British community and upper-class Chinese, gambling and horse racing were banned by the new Communist government and the Square took on new life as a site for political reckoning. 

Spencer will take us on this historical journey as we visit the old police station where the British fired against the Chinese in 1926, the last holdout of the Chinese against the Japanese in 1937, as well as sites relating to the Cultural Revolution and the political action of the Gang of Four. You won't want to miss this special tour with stories of Shanghai's fascinating political past. 

Thank goodness for the SEA website. It tells me what I actually saw when it is too wet to take notes.

Thank goodness, too, for Wikipedia, as they fill us in on the importance of People's Square:

History

Prior to 1949 and the establishment of the People's Republic of China, what is now People's Square was a part of the horse racing course of Shanghai. After gambling and horse racing were banned by the new Communist government, a part of the race course became the People's Square, which included a large avenue and spectator stands for use during parades.

In the 1990s, major changes were made to the square. The Shanghai Municipal Government was moved here from the former HSBC Building on the Bund, also the Shanghai Museum was moved here from its previous site in a former office building. More recent additions include the Shanghai Grand Theatre and the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall.

Other parts of the race course still remain. The clubhouse buildings became the Shanghai Art Museum, while part of the race track became People's Park, a public park.

Before we reached People's Square, we had some other sights to see.

Our first featured attraction

The infamous former British police station

We weren't allowed any closer because the site was being used for a state-run 

exam for future state-run tourist guides. 

A not-untypical street scene

Can't run wire like that in Canada!

Back on track

This huge white building was the last hold-out of the Chinese
against the Japanese in 1937.

We then waded made our way to the Park Hotel, built in 1934. When it was constructed, it was the tallest building in Asia with a whopping height of 24 floors. Times have changed in Shanghai, just a bit.

As the sign says...

You're going to want to enlarge this. Trust me.

Are you still standing?

In 1950, there was a survey done which determined that the central flag pole on the top of the Park Hotel should be designated as Zero Center Point of Shanghai.

And so it was.

In 1997, when the hotel was renovated, this marker was laid, showing the Zero Center Point.

The Park Hotel has a very interesting museum of sorts showcasing photos, menus and hotel memorabilia from its early days. Oddly enough, I didn't see any objects that had to do with the Gang of Four, which had used the Park Hotel as their headquarters at one point. Hmmm...

Onward we slogged walked to nearby People's Park.

Notice all the signs, typed and handwritten?

Wonder what they're doing, hanging everywhere in this specific area?

Would you like me to enlighten you?

Well, since you said, "Pretty please, Elizabeth" I will. I also like to show off educate people. This is Shanghai's so-called marriage market. The signs are made by parents, 99.9% of them mothers, who are extolling the virtues (age, height, job, province of origin, apartment ownership) of their offspring and the desired traits of the possible spouse. If you're a male, you better have your own apartment if you ever want to get hitched. Sometimes the children know their parents are doing this, for the most part, not. At any rate, the parents chat with each other and if they think their children would hit it off, a meeting between the fruit of their loins is arranged. I would love to be a fly on the wall for the conversation that gets the kiddies to meet up with each other, parents in tow, I would imagine.

Enough with that, on to the other sites/sights (never sure which one to type).

This is the Shanghai Art Museum. Those readers who have good retention may remember this building because it also houses the restaurant Kathleen's 5, where I have had the pleasure of enjoying a couple of delicious luncheons. I digress. I must be getting hungry.

Here's more detailed information on this historic building:

The Shanghai Art Museum (上海美术馆) is an art museum in the city of Shanghai, China. It is located in the former clubhouse building of the Shanghai Race Club Today, it is the home of the Shanghai biennial and stands adjacent to People's Square. It sits on the edge of People’s Square, which was once the Shanghai Horse Racing course.

History

The building was constructed in 1933, as the clubhouse for the Shanghai Race Club race course. The horse race course was reputed to be the third most profitable industry during the 1930s (during the Republic of China era).

In March 1934 the new Shanghai Race Club building opened. The grandstand was thought at the time to be the largest in the world, and probably was, while the Race Club, with its marble staircases, teak-panelled rooms, oak parquet floors, and its coffee room which was 100ft by 47ft with a huge fireplace, must certainly ranked as the sumptuous club of its kind yet built in any country. 

Spencer can spout all this info off the top of his head. I need Wikipedia.

The former stables

I know. The most spectacular stables I've ever seen.

Another angle

Swimming Moving along, we came to the Shanghai Grand Theatre.

Another angle with the tip of the landmark JW Marriott Hotel in the back.

The JW Marriott Hotel

Yes, I, too, think it looks like a mechanical pencil.

Here's an interesting tidbit from Wikipedia:
Since the early 1940s, the communists have built an extensive network of underground tunnels in the area. The tunnels under the art museum building still exist today. It connects to the Marriott hotel across the street, West Nanjing Road. On the top of the Art Museum is the Kathleen's 5 restaurant, a well-known restaurant in the city. Furthermore, the back road had to be refortified in 2005 since the food delivery trucks for Kathleen's 5 were heavy enough to crush the concrete pavement into the tunnels.


Our intrepid guide told the tour participants about this as well, and how the tunnels could hold a million people, according to the government. Hmmmm...don't ever want to have to verify that fact!

The final building on our walk, the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center.

All in all, another successful tour, despite the sopping wet weather.